ches

Poate astea or fi mai OK decat sprayurile, totusi un produs dedicat cred ca e mai recomandabil. La fel si glicerina care este recomandata si in manualul utilizatorului (cel putin asa e la Nubira). Va impartasesc experienta mea completa cu siliconul: Eu am folosit la Nubira spray cu silicon de bord (Bolidon, Valvoline etc) si la interior a fost OK, in schimb pe plasticele exterioare&chedere a fost f nasol. Initial aratau f bine, un negru puternic si lucios, insa dupa cateva saptamani s-a albit plasticul si f greu am reusit sa-i scot fata. Aparatorile de noroi au ramas albite si n-am avut ce sa le fac. Chederele s-au albit si ele, dar le-am lasat asa. In timp au inceput sa crape, dar nu stiu cat sa dau vina pe silicon si cat sa dau vina pe varsta masinii (am observat crapaturi serioase cand deja avea 6 ani). Mentionez ca plasticele de la interior au aratat tot timpul bine si nu am observat efecte negative datorate siliconului, desi l-am folosit 2-3 ani. Cel mai bun spray cu silicon mi s-a parut Bolidon - costa putin si tinea cam 1 an de zile. Ulterior am trecut pe curatitoare de plastic "silicon free" care au mers f bine si la interior si la exterior.

Din pacate in timp siliconul deterioreaza stratul superficial al plasticului/cauciucului. De aceea o sa vezi ca multi producatori de produse de intretinere mai bune se lauda ca au spray-uri "Silicon free". Si eu am dat pe chedere la Nubira si dupa putin timp se albeau si aratau ca dracu. Acum folosesc Nigrin Gummi Pfledge. Se aplica usor (are un buretel cu stift ca la cremele lichide pt pantofi) si arata bine. Vad ca face si treaba buna, pana acum nu mi-au inghetat chederele. Eu am dat <10RON pe flacon, am tratat mai multe masini cu el si inca mai am destul. Glicerina oricum e mult mai ieftina la 1RON/sticluta.

Pune si o poza cu placa ca sa vedem si noi ce ne asteapta (se exfoliaza cablajul, se rupe mufa etc...) ca din explicatii n-am inteles f bine. Daca e PCB-ul (placa) de vina se poate pune pe deasupra traseului original un fir de cupru cositorit direct pe mufa. Mufa se poate lipi pe cablaj prin cositorire daca pad-ul/traseele de cupru sunt intacte sau se poate lipi cu superglue daca PCB-ul s-a exfoliat si nu poate fi cositorita. Bafta!

Salut, Uite aici pe unde vin cablurile: http://home.booroondook.ru/gmtis/en/documents_2007/kalos-nb/start_kalos-nb.html Din ce vad eu in pozele cu fire, ca sa ajungi la far trebuie sa te bagi sub masina, sa dai jos aparatoarea de noroi de sub bara (la Nubira e prinsa prinsa cu niste suruburi, banuiesc ca e la fel si la Aveo) si apoi vei avea acces la farul de ceata. De obicei becul e prins cu o clema de sarma pe care trebuie sa o desfaci si apoi sa il tragi afara drept. Cam asta aia avea de facut. Cel mai greu probabil va fi sa gasesti o rampa . Bafta!

Multam Mircea & Perfidus! O sa gasesc firul cu pricina (nu o sa-mi fie prea greu sper) si o sa montez un "licurici" pe el. Imitatia de alarma pe care o am are circuitul de "licurici" integrat in LED si nu vreau sa dau jos LED-ul original din usa. Daca am timp o sa fac si un circuit care sa aprinda led-ul doar la inchiderea usilor. In principiu merge cu un tranzistor MOS de 100mA pus in serie cu alimentarea "licuriciului" si cu poarta la firul care da comanda de blocare a usilor. Firul de comanda pt inchiderea centralizata aveti idee pe unde trece prin habitaclu? E si el prin stalp pe acolo?

Ahaaaaa, nu intelesesem eu bine, credeam ca te-ai legat in paralel pe pe pinii de la mufa AUX si ii faci tu scurt din microcontroler ca sa creada ca are mufa conectata. La mine CD si AUX sunt pe acelasi buton, asta inseamna ca merge ori AUX ori CD? Daca l-au pus in aceeasi capsula cu cel de radiatie solara e stupid rau. Sub parbriz vara e mult mai cald, iar iarna e mai frig. Ar fi ilogic sa-l puna acolo. In plus, senzorul de temperatura trebuie pus intr-o zona in care sa comunice direct cu habitaclul. La mine cel de radiatie solara e complet inchis intr-o sfera care face o filtrare a luminii. De pe site-ul Chevrolet asa pare sa fie si la tine, deci nu are ce cauta senzorul de temperatura acolo. Edit: Uite ce am gasit pe www.chevroletcruzeforum.com/index.php?/topic/96-outside-temperature-indicator/page__st__20 Automatic HVAC Description and Operation Automatic HVAC Description and Operation The air temperature and the air delivery description and operation are divided into eight areas: • HVAC Control Components • Air Speed • Air Delivery • Heating and A/C Operation • Recirculation Operation • Automatic Operation • Engine Coolant • A/C Cycle HVAC Control Components HVAC Control The HVAC control contains all switches, which are required to control the functions of HVAC and serve as interface between the operator and the HVAC control module. The selected values are passed to the HVAC control module via LIN-Bus. HVAC Control Module The HVAC control module is a GMLAN device that interfaces between the operator and the HVAC system to maintain and control desired air temperature and air distribution settings. The battery positive voltage circuit provides power that the HVAC control module uses for keep alive memory. If the battery positive voltage circuit loses power, all HVAC DTCs and settings will be erased from keep alive memory. The body control module (BCM), which is the vehicle mode master, provides a device ON-Signal. The HVAC control module provides blower, air delivery mode and air temperature settings. The HVAC control module supports the following features: Feature Availability Afterblow Available if reprogrammed by the technician Purge Yes Personalization Yes Actuator Calibration Yes Mode Actuator The mode actuator is a 5-wire stepper motor. The HVAC control module supplies a 12 V reference voltage to the stepper motor and energizes the 4 stepper motor coils with a pulsed ground signal. The stepper motor puts the mode flap into the calculated position in order to reach the selected position. The null point of the stepper motor will be calibrated, if the stepper motor is new. When the stepper motor is calibrated, the HVAC control module can drive the applicable coil to reach exactly the desired position of the flap. Air Temperature Actuator The air temperature actuator is a 5-wire stepper motor. The HVAC control module supplies a 12 V reference voltage to the stepper motor and energizes the 4 stepper motor coils with a pulsed ground signal. The stepper motor puts the mixed air flap into the calculated position, in order to reach the selected temperature. The null point of the stepper motor will be calibrated, if the stepper motor is new. When the stepper motor is calibrated, the HVAC control module can drive the applicable coil to reach exactly the desired position of the flap. Recirculation Actuator The recirculation actuator is a 5-wire stepper motor. The HVAC control module supplies a 12 V reference voltage to the stepper motor and energizes the 4 stepper motor coils with a pulsed ground signal. The stepper motor puts the recirculation flap into the calculated position in order to reach the desired position. The null point of the stepper motor will be calibrated, if the stepper motor is new. When the stepper motor is calibrated, the HVAC control module can drive the applicable coil to reach exactly the desired position of the flap. Blower Motor Control Processor The blower motor control processor controls the speed of the blower motor by increasing or decreasing the voltage drop on the ground side of the blower motor. The HVAC control module provides a low side pulse width modulation (PWM) signal to the blower motor control processor via the blower motor speed control circuit. As the requested blower speed increases, the HVAC control module increases the amount of time that the speed signal is modulated to ground. As the requested blower speed decreases, the HVAC control module decreases the amount of time that the signal is modulated to ground. Air Quality Sensor The HVAC control module detects exhaust gas by an air quality sensor. The air quality sensor is a 3-wire sensor with an ignition voltage circuit, a ground circuit and a signal circuit. The HVAC control module evaluates the information of the air quality sensor and closes the recirculation flap, while the air quality sensor switch is pressed, as soon as the concentration of pollutants exceeds a predefined value. Duct Temperature Sensors The air temperature sensors are 2-wire negative temperature co-efficient thermistors. The sensors operate within a temperature range of -40 to +85°C (-40 to +185°F). The sensors are installed in the air distribution ducts and measure the temperature of the air that streams from the ducts. The HVAC control module uses these values to calculate the mixed air flap position. Evaporator Temperature Sensor The evaporator temperature sensor is a 2-wire negative temperature co-efficient thermistor. The sensor operates within a temperature range of -40 to +85°C (-40 to +185°F). The sensor is installed at the evaporator and measures its temperature. If the temperature drops under 3°C (38°F), the compressor will be switched off in order to prevent a frozen evaporator. A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor The A/C refrigerant pressure sensor is a 3-wire piezoelectric pressure transducer. A 5 V reference voltage, low reference, and signal circuits enable the sensor to operate. The A/C pressure signal can be between 0.2-4.8 V. When the A/C refrigerant pressure is low, the signal value is near 0 V. When the A/C refrigerant pressure is high, the signal value is near 5 V. The engine control module (ECM) converts the voltage signal to a pressure value. When pressure is too high or too low, the ECM will not allow the A/C compressor clutch to engage. A/C Compressor The A/C compressor is belt driven and operates when the magnetic clutch is engaged. When the A/C switch is pressed, the HVAC control module sends an A/C request message to the ECM via CAN-Bus. Therefore the ECM grounds the A/C compressor clutch relay control circuit, which will switch the A/C compressor clutch relay. With the relay contacts closed, battery voltage is supplied to the A/C compressor clutch. The A/C compressor clutch will be activated. Windshield Temperature and Inside Moisture Sensor The windshield temperature and inside moisture sensor includes the relative humidity sensor, windshield temperature sensor and humidity sensing element temperature sensor. This sensor assembly provides information about: • Relative humidity level at windshield (compartment side) • Temperature of the windshield inside (compartment side) • Temperature of the humidity sensor element The relative humidity sensor measures the relative humidity of the compartment side of the windshield. It also detects the temperature of the windshield surface on the passenger compartment side. Both values are used as control inputs for the HVAC control module application to calculate the fog risk on windshield compartment side and ability to reduce fuel consumption by decreasing A/C compressor power to a minimum without causing any fog. The sensor will also enable partial recirculation mode in order to improve heat-up performance of the passenger compartment under cold ambient temperature conditions without the risk of mist build-up on the windshield. The humidity sensor element temperature sensor supplies the temperature of the humidity sensor element. It is only needed if the thermal contact between the humidity sensing element and the inside windshield surface is not sufficient. Ambient Light/Sunload Sensor The ambient light/sunload sensor includes the sunload sensor and passenger compartment temperature sensor. This sensor assembly provides information about: • Sun heat intensity • Passenger compartment temperature The solar sensor is connected to ground and to a 5 V stabilized voltage supply through the HVAC control module. As the sunload increases, the sensor signal voltage also increases and vice versa. The signal varies between 1.4-4.5 V and is provided to the HVAC control module. The passenger compartment temperature sensor is a negative temperature co-efficient thermistor. A signal and low reference circuit enables the sensor to operate. As the air temperature increases, the sensor resistance decreases. The sensor signal varies between 0-5 V. Bright or high intensity light causes the vehicles interior temperature to increase. The HVAC system compensates for the increased temperature by diverting additional cool air into the vehicle. Air Speed The blower control switch is part of the HVAC control. The selected value of the blower switch position is sent to the HVAC control module via LIN-Bus. The blower motor control module is an interface between HVAC control module and blower motor. The blower motor control module regulates supply voltage and ground circuits to blower motor. The HVAC control module provides a PWM signal to the blower motor control module in order to command the desired blower motor speed. The blower motor control module supplies battery voltage to the blower motor and uses the blower motor ground as a low side control to adjust the blower motor speed. The voltage amounts between 2-13 V and changes linear to the height of the PWM signal. Air Delivery The HVAC control module controls the distribution of air by the use of recirculation and mode actuator. The modes that may be selected are: • Defrost • Defog • Panel • Floor The desired air distribution mode can be selected with the air distribution switches at the HVAC control. The HVAC control delivers the values to the HVAC control module via LIN-Bus. The HVAC control module controls the air distribution actuator so that it drives the flap to the calculated position. Depending on the position of the flap, air is distributed through various ducts leading to the outlets in the dash. Turning the mode flap to the defrost position, the HVAC control module will move the recirculation actuator to outside air, reducing window fogging. When defrost is selected, the blower motor will be activated, regardless of the coolant temperature. The HVAC control module enables a high volume of air delivered to the front defrost vents. A/C is available in all modes. The rear window defogger does not affect the HVAC system. Heating and A/C Operation The purpose of the heating and A/C system is to provide heated and cooled air to the interior of the vehicle. The A/C system will also remove humidity from the interior and reduce windshield fogging. Regardless of the temperature setting, the following can affect the rate that the HVAC system can achieve the desired temperature: • Recirculation actuator setting • Difference between inside and desired temperature • Blower motor speed setting • Mode setting Pressing the A/C switch or AUTO switch enables the HVAC control module to request A/C compressor engagement and turn ON the A/C switch LED respectively the AUTO switch LED if the AUTO switch is pressed. The HVAC control module sends a message to the engine control module (ECM) for A/C compressor engagement. The ECM will provide a ground for the A/C compressor relay enabling it to close its internal contacts to send battery voltage to the A/C compressor clutch coil. The A/C compressor diode will prevent a voltage peak, resulting from the collapse of the magnetic field of the coil, from entering the vehicle electrical system when the compressor is disengaged. The following conditions must be met in order to activate the A/C compressor: • Battery voltage is between 9-18 V. • Engine coolant temperature is less than 124°C (255°F). • Engine speed is greater than 600 RPM. • Engine speed is less than 5 500 RPM. • A/C high side pressure is between 269-2 929 kPa (39-425 PSI). • Throttle position is less than 100%. • Evaporator temperature is greater than 3°C (38°F). • ECM does not detect immoderate torque load. • ECM does not detect insufficient idle quality. • The ambient temperature is above 1°C (34°F). The sensor information is used by the ECM to determine the following: • The A/C high side pressure • An A/C system load on the engine • The heat load at the A/C condenser The air streams into the passenger compartment through the heater core and the evaporator core. The air temperature actuator drives the mixed air flap to induce the airflow. If the interior temperature should be increased, the mixed air flap is put into the position in which more air streams through the heater core. If the interior temperature should be decreased, the mixed air flap is put into the position in which more air streams through the evaporator core. Recirculation Operation The recirculation switch is part of the HVAC control. The selected recirculation switch position is sent to the HVAC control module via LIN-Bus. The HVAC control module controls the air intake through the recirculation actuator. The recirculation switch closes the recirculation flap in order to circulate the air within the vehicle. Through renewed selection of the recirculation switch, the recirculation flap is opened again in order to route outside air into the vehicle. Recirculation is only available if the defrost mode is not active. When the defrost mode is active, the recirculation actuator opens the recirculation flap and outside air is circulated to the windshield to reduce fogging. The HVAC control module evaluates the information of the air quality sensor and closes the recirculation flap while the air quality sensor switch is pressed, as soon as the concentration of pollutants exceeds a predefined value. In automatic mode the values of the windshield temperature and inside moisture sensor are used as control inputs for the HVAC control module application to calculate the fog risk on the passenger compartment side of the windshield. The A/C compressor and the defrost mode are activated to prevent or remove fog on the passenger compartment side of the windshield. Automatic Operation In automatic operation, the HVAC control module maintains the comfort level inside of the vehicle by controlling the A/C compressor clutch, the blower motor, the air temperature actuators, mode actuator and recirculation actuator. To put the HVAC system in automatic mode, the following is required: 1. The auto switch must be activated. 2. The air temperature switch must be in any other position than full hot or full cold position. Once the desired temperature is reached, the blower motor, mode, recirculation and temperature actuators automatically adjust to maintain the temperature selected. The HVAC control module performs the following functions to maintain the desired air temperature: • Monitors the following sensors: - Ambient air temperature sensor - Lower left air temperature sensor - Lower right air temperature sensor - Upper left air temperature sensor - Upper right air temperature sensor - Windshield temperature and inside moisture sensor - Ambient light/sunload sensor - Air quality sensor • Regulate blower motor speed • Position the air temperature actuator • Position the mode actuator • Position the recirculation actuator • Request A/C operation When the warmest position is selected in automatic operation the blower speed will increase gradually until the vehicle reaches normal operating temperature. When normal operating temperature is reached the blower stays on high speed and the air temperature actuators stays in the full heat position. When the coldest position is selected in automatic operation the blower stays on high and the air temperature actuators stay in full cold position. The mode actuator remains in the panel position and the recirculation actuator will remain in the recirculation position. Under cold ambient temperatures, the automatic HVAC system provides heat in the most efficient manner. The operator can select an extreme temperature setting but the system will not warm the vehicle any faster. Under warm ambient temperatures, the automatic HVAC system also provides air conditioning in the most efficient manner. Selecting an extreme cool temperature will not cool the vehicle any faster. The HVAC control module evaluates the information of the air quality sensor and closes the recirculation flap while the air quality sensor switch is pressed, as soon as the concentration of pollutants exceeds a predefined value. In automatic mode the values of the windshield temperature and inside moisture sensor are used as control inputs for the HVAC control module application to calculate the fog risk on the passenger compartment side of the windshield and ability to reduce fuel consumption by decreasing A/C compressor power to a minimum without causing any fog. The A/C compressor and the defrost mode are activated to prevent or remove fog on the passenger compartment side of the windshield. The sensor will also enable partial recirculation mode in order to improve heat-up performance of the passenger compartment under cold ambient temperature conditions without the risk of mist build-up on the windshield. Engine Coolant Engine coolant is the essential element of the heating system. The thermostat controls the normal engine operating coolant temperature. The thermostat also creates a restriction for the cooling system that promotes a positive coolant flow and helps prevent cavitation. Coolant enters the heater core through the inlet heater hose, in a pressurized state. The heater core is located inside the HVAC control module. The ambient air drawn through the HVAC control module absorbs the heat of the coolant flowing through the heater core. Heated air is distributed to the passenger compartment, through the HVAC control module, for passenger comfort. Opening or closing the air temperature flap controls the amount of heat delivered to the passenger compartment. The coolant exits the heater core through the return heater hose and recirculates back to the engine cooling system. A/C Cycle Refrigerant is the key element in an air conditioning system. R-134a is presently the only Environmental Protection Agency approved refrigerant for automotive use. R-134a is a very low temperature gas that can transfer the undesirable heat and moisture from the passenger compartment to the outside air. The compressor builds pressure on the vapor refrigerant. Compressing the refrigerant also adds heat to the refrigerant. The refrigerant is discharged from the compressor, through the discharge hose, and forced to flow to the condenser and then through the balance of the A/C system. The A/C system is mechanically protected with the use of a high pressure relief valve. If the A/C refrigerant pressure sensor fails or if the refrigerant system becomes restricted and refrigerant pressure continued to rise, the high pressure relief will pop open and release refrigerant from the system. Compressed refrigerant enters the condenser in a high temperature, high pressure vapor state. As the refrigerant flows through the condenser, the heat of the refrigerant is transferred to the ambient air passing through the condenser. Cooling the refrigerant causes the refrigerant to and change from a vapor to a liquid state. The condenser is located in front of the radiator for maximum heat transfer. The condenser is made of aluminium tubing and aluminum cooling fins, which allows rapid heat transfer for the refrigerant. The semi-cooled liquid refrigerant exits the condenser and flows through the liquid line, to the orifice tube. The orifice tube is located in the liquid line between the condenser and the evaporator. The orifice tube is the dividing point for the high and the low pressure sides of the A/C system. As the refrigerant passes through the orifice tube, the pressure on the refrigerant is lowered. Due to the pressure differential on the liquid refrigerant, the refrigerant will begin to vaporize at the orifice tube. The orifice tube also meters the amount of liquid refrigerant that can flow into the evaporator. Refrigerant exiting the orifice tube flows into the evaporator core in a low pressure, liquid state. Ambient air is drawn through the HVAC control module and passes through the evaporator core. Warm and moist air will cause the liquid refrigerant boil inside of the evaporator core. The boiling refrigerant absorbs heat from the ambient air and draws moisture onto the evaporator. The refrigerant exits the evaporator through the suction line and back to the A/C compressor, in a vapor state, and completing the A/C cycle of heat removal. At the A/C compressor, the refrigerant is compressed again and the cycle of heat removal is repeated. The conditioned air is distributed through the HVAC control module for passenger comfort. The heat and moisture removed from the passenger compartment will also change form, or condense, and is discharged from the HVAC control module as water. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Deci se pare ca aveai dreptate, sunt pusi amandoi senzorii acolo, si de lumina si de temperatura. Oricum se pare ca cel de temperatura e un banal termistor NTC, deci cu putin chin (desfacut bordul) poate fi mutat. Poti incerca sa vezi daca e pus acolo folosind o sursa de caldura locala (o rezistenta de putere alimentatata de la priza de 12V) si observand cum se comporta climatronicul.

Salut Alice, Cum zicea si Mircea comportamentul este corect: atat timp cat vrea sa faca cald, baga pe la picioare (pentru ca aerul cald se ridica oricum) si cand vrea sa bage rece, baga in primul rand prin fata. 1. Nu iti va baga niciodata aer cald prin fata pe Auto pentru ca ai avea o senzatie de disconfort pentru ca ai respira direct aerul cald si ti se va usca mucoasa nazala. Asta era greseala pe care o faceam la Nubira si tot timpul simteam nasul uscat. 2. Aproape intotdeauna cand pornesti motorul si e pe Auto va baga pe la parbriz si iti va porni si compresorul AC pentru a dezaburi rapid. Daca vede ca temperatura e scazuta in continuare in masina va baga mai apoi si pe la picioare, dar prima lui grija e sa dezabureasca ca sa poti sa pleci. 3. Daca senzorul e plasat aiurea poti sa-l muti intr-un loc mai bun. Este foarte important ca senzorul sa nu fie in bataia vreunui curent de aer, altfel va raporta informatii gresite. La Lacetti dupa cum spune si Mircea e pe bord, undeva langa butucul de cheie, iar la Epica e pus deasupra scumierei, in zona de comanda a climei. 4. 53-54 grade e suficient, gandeste-te ca e o masina, nu o casa, se incalzeste rapid. 5. Am observat ca pe incalzire, AC-ul nu prea face mare lucru, de fapt in cele mai multe cazuri nu face nimic. Diesel-urile noastre au incalzire auxiliara cu rezistenta si pe aia se bazeaza pana cand se incalzeste motorul. 6. Pot sa spun ca fata de Nubira, Epica e lux la incalzire, chiar daca Nubira era pe benzina. De cele mai multe ori mergeam cu Nubira cativa km buni ca sa pice turturii de pe mine . PS: Vad ca te pricepi cu microcontrolerele si iti place sa mesteresti electronice. Mi-a placut mult car kit-ul pe care l-ai facut si ma gandeam sa fac si eu unul , insa timpul nu prea imi permite sa ma ocup si de mesterit electronice (la birou fac decat proiectare). Ma gandeam sa gasesc o metoda mai non-invaziva (nu vreau sa desfac unitatea audio), dar deocamdata nu am nici o idee.

Multam Axel, am gasit schema si din cate vad toate variantele de Epica au ISU (Intelligent Switching Unit) care contine un driver (tranzistor sau mai curand un releu) pentru sirena. Am gasit ceva prin manual ca la motoarele pe benzina sirena s-ar afla sub snorkel-ul (capatul pe unde trage aerul) de la admisie. Acum trebuie sa imi bag ochiul pe acolo sa vad daca este vorba intr-adevar de sirena de alarma sau doar de claxon. Din pacate manualele de pe site nu sunt prea bine structurate si nici prea complete. Oricum macar am confirmarea ca pot sa-i pun sirena, problema e doar sa gasesc conectorul.

Mi-am rezervat putin timp sa citesc carnetul de garantie extinsa de la Lacetti. Majoritatea chestiilor sunt de bun simt, dar ce mi-a atras atentia este ca in urma prelungirii garantiei, se extinde garantia trenului de rulare (amortizoare, arcuri, bucse, bielete, pivoti etc) la 80000km. Date fiind drumurile patriei si faptul ca sora-mea e incepatoare zic ca extindere de la 50000km la 80000km este binevenita. Nu ca ar ajunge ea sa faca km astia in 3 ani jumatate cat mai are garantie... Oricum sper ca informatia este utila si pt ceilalti care s-au gandit sa isi extinda garantia .

Salutare, Cateva "probleme" tehnice am si eu cu a mea Epica. 1. Masina are alarma din fabrica, dar nu are sirena. Ma poate ajuta cineva cu o schema electrica si eventual sa-mi spuna unde ar trebui plasata aceasta? Am o banuiala ca fierele sunt trase, doar sirena lipseste. Asta pt ca daca ma inchid in masina din telecomanda si deschid usa de la butonul din interior, incep sa clipeasca avariile si motorul nu mai porneste decat daca o dezarmez din telcomanda. Mi-ar placea sa-i pun sirena ca sa se auda in caz de ceva... 2. Clapeta care acopera suportul de pahare este putin tocita si as vrea sa revopsesc zonele respective. Stiti de unde as putea sa iau vopsea care imita culoarea aluminiului? Nu ma intereaseaza striatiile acelea specifice aluminiului, sunt convins ca nu va iesi perfect, dar zonele sunt mici si vreau doar sa nimeresc culoarea. 3. Stie cineva de unde pot lua un manual de service? La noi pe forum pt Epica nu am gasit nimic . Daca imi mai aduc aminte de ceva, va anunt . Multam!

Bine, mecanicii care ti-au spus ca nu vad nimic pe tester, ori vroiau sa scape de tine ori sunt niste idioti. Tind sa cred ca amandoua. Cu siguranta porcarioara aia de senzor temperatura de 2 lei nu este monitorizat si ca atare nu se salveaza in memoria ECM ca defect. Astia care pun doar testerul pe ea si zic ca nu se vede nimic sunt la fel de valabili ca niste copii de gradinita carora le dai testerul. Normal este sa dea senzorul jos, sa-l masoare, sa verifice parametrii cu foaia de catalog si sa-l schimbe daca este cazul. Intrucat senzorul de temperatura e o chestie f simpla si nu prea are cum sa se strice, tind sa cred ca e o problema de contact la fel ca la binecunoscutul cod 95. Daca ai rabdare, poti sa te uiti tu la masina sa vezi pe unde trece traseul (te-ar ajuta si manualul de service) si sa cureti contactele la ambele capete ale firului. La mine senzorul este amplasat undeva in bara fata (banuiesc ca si la tine la fel) si manualul utilizatorului specifica ca poate indica valori eronate daca masina sta pe loc mai mult timp la relanti datorita caldurii degajate de asfalt. Totusi, nu am avut diferente de 15 grade intre temperatura de afara si cea raportata de masina.

Functional e foarte buna ideea si arata binisor, doar gaurile alea pt butoane sunt ca nuca in perete (nu sunt aliniate). Poti incerca sa cumperi/gasesti niste butoane pe care sa le pui pe carcasa si sa apesi pe ele, iar mai departe ele sa apese pe butoanele ale argintii. Sper ca ai inteles ideea... Senzorul de temperatura este exterior?

Ti-a iesit f bine janta, cel putin din poze se vede acoperita uniform. La zgarieturile de pe buna o sa ai ceva de munca si nu stiu cat de mult va tine, dar zgarieturile alea adanci le scoti usor cu chit. Te-ai cam grabit sa incerci spray-ul . Nu-ti face griji, o sa tina bine vopseaua daca ai pregatit suprafata.

10000RON, adica 2300E ? S-au aruncat baietii, nu gluma. Arata f bine masina si chiar ma gandeam ca daca am Doamne fereste am vreun necaz sa ma duc la ei. Dar 2300E e o suma uriasa pt vopsitorie. Ma rog, cu CASCO nu mai conteaza, dar suma este uriasa... Edit: Stii ce ar merge de minune pe a ta, mai ales ca e neagra? Niste ornamente cromate la baza geamului. Ar arata super .

Salutare, Desi Nubirica am vandut-o (si topicul ii era in mare parte dedicat ei), ma simt dator sa mai trec cate ceva la jurnalul de bord al Lacetti-ului. In urma cu cateva luni bune sora-mea a reusit sa stearga o Mazda 3 cap coada din cauza ca s-a speriat de un idiot care i-a tasnit in fata de pe partea dreapta (stationa acolo si s-a gandit sa plece in tromba). Ce au patit fiecare: 1. Lacetti - bara fata zgariata, aripa stanga fata lovita bine (a fost inlocuita) 2. Mazda - zgariate: usa dreapta fata, usa dreapta spate, aripa dreapta spate, bara spate. Eu am facut-o pe CASCO la Top Ten unde am vopsit-o si pe a cumnata-mii si nu au fost probleme. Partea proasta e ca RCA-ul era la Euroins si sora-mea a primit dupa ~3 luni de la accident citatie la proces ca martor in procesul Omniasig (cel cu Mazda avea CASCO la ei) - Euroins. Sora-mea nu s-am prezentat, sper sa se fi rezolvat amiabil intre asiguratori. Un lucru e sigur, nu voi mai face RCA la firme de asigurari obscure... La Epica am facuta la Ardaf care stiu ca nu sunt cine stie ce, dar macar stiu de unde sa-i iau spre deosebire de Euroins, Carpatica si alte petarde. Alte intamplari neplacute n-au fost de cand n-am mai postat. Doar chestiile uzuale: - Lacetti are acum ~6000km intrucat masina merge in general doar in weekend prin oras . - I-am facut extindere de garantie Gold pt ca la cat se merge cu ea, daca sunt piese cu defecte de fabricatie, vor aparea problemele dupa ce iese din garantie. "Afacerea" m-a costat 387E, fiind masina cu vechime <18luni. Daca luam de la inceput garantie Gold ma costa mai putin, dar pe atunci ziceam ca 3 ani sunt de ajuns... - Masina a primit cadou covorasele cu care a venit Epica pentru ca erau de culoare gri si nu mergeau deloc pe Epica care are mocheta neagra. Plus ca erau cam mici. Pe Lacetti vin f bine, chiar le-am decupat nitel pe alea din spate ca sa intre ca lumea. Toate cele bune!

Extras din manualul de service la Nubira 2: Nu stiu ce exact inseamna etil metil cetona, poate un coleg de forum chimist ne poate ajuta, cert este ca e un solvent. Spray-urile de tip Carb Cleaner, spray contacte, WD40 etc contin solventi, de aceea eu am evitat sa le folosesc pt curatarea IAC. De altfel pe unele spray-uri si scrie ca ataca plasticul, garniturile etc. Eu am curatat intotdeauna supapa IAC cu o carpa moale fara sa apas si am dat cu putin spray doar pe scaunul supapei. Toate cele bune!

@Vaxxi: Clar ca e bullshit de marketing, de aia am si zis ca se lauda . Important este ca desi este cea mai ieftina de la OMV are si agenti detergenti, iar diferenta de pret fata de Petrom Top Diesel este destul de mica. Asta inseamna ca pot sa pun de la oricare imi este in drum pt ca motorina si pretul vor fi aceleasi. Desi Rompetrol nu are fisa tehnica a carburantilor postata pe site, sunt destul de sigur ca OMV Sprint Diesel/Petrom Top Diesel au acelasi efect ca si Motorina Efix, pardon Efex de la Rompetrol . @Mircea: Deci Rompetrolul e pe un trend descendent, cel putin d.p.d.v al serviciilor. Pacat, ne facea bine concurenta lor cu Petromul. Cateva sfaturi bune (si de bun simt) pe care le dadea un tip pe forumul VW erau: 1. Sa punem motorina/benzina de la statii nou construite pt ca au rezervoarele mai curate, deci sansele sa ai particule solide in motorina sunt mai mici. 2. Sa punem motorina de la statii care au vanzare buna pentru ca motorinei aditivate cu biodiesel nu ii face bine sa stea prea mult. 3. Sa nu alimentam imediat dupa ce s-a adus motorina/benzina la statie (daca vezi cisterna in curte) pentru ca particulele solide sa aiba timp sa se aseze pe fundul rezervorului. 4. Sa nu punem decat in caz de urgenta de la statii "dubioase" indiferent daca scrie sau nu ca sunt partener al unei companii cunoscute.

Epica: Castrol Magnatec Diesel 5W40 API CF; ACEA A3/B3/B4,C3; VW 505 00; MB 229.31 Lacetti: GM 5W30 Dexos 2

Iese bine cu spray si tine, important este sa pregatesti bine suprafata: smirghel, degresat, grud si apoi vopsea. Si chituit/slefuit pe ici colo daca e nevoie. Dupa ce le vopsesti, lasa-le sa se usuce intai "natural" cateva ore si apoi pune feonul pe ele. Eu am uscat cu feonul vopseaua pe Nubira (am facut buza la o aripa care fusese atinsa usor) si n-am avut probleme cu exfoliere & stuff. Pe interior nu te stresa sa le vopsesti ca oricum nu se vede. Lasa-le asa, eventual curata-le cu o perie mai tare, dar NU cu perie de sarma ca zgarii vopseaua. Spre exemplu Rial-urile mele erau finisate ca lumea doar pe partea exterioara, in interior erau vopsite cu vopsea mata, si de alta nuanta decat exteriorul... Bafta!

Si eu tot pe atunci l-am luat. Subscriu ca e f bun pt smoala, insecte si clei de copaci. Eu am dat 9 RON pe el din Auchan. Acum poate e mai mult, dar sigur nu e 30RON ca in benzinarii.

Salut Costin, In primul rand felicitari pentru pasiunea cu care iti ingrijesti masina. Nu cred ca pasiunea se masoara in bani la fel cum nu sunt de acord cu cei care spun ca nu merita sa ingrijesti/modifici o Dacie doar pt ca e o Dacie. Atat timp cat modificarile sunt facute cu bun gust, totul este bine. Si eu am avut Dacie si stateam mai mult pe sub ea decat in ea, dar am avut grija de ea pentru ca era masina mea. Cand am trecut la Nubira am stat mai mult in ea decat sub ea, dar niciodata nu am uitat care a fost "prima dragoste" (a se citi prima masina pe care mi-am permis-o). Acum cat se poate de on-topic: 1. Jantele "de iarna" arata f bine si probabil te vei indragosti de ele daca le pui si un cauciuc cu talon mai inalt. Iarna o sa vezi ca ai nevoie . 2. Nu stiu daca mai ai plafonul negru la interior, dar mie chiar mi s-a parut creepy, mai ales cu geamuri negre. Vezi ca se gaseste tapiterie pt plafon in Obor si este gri simpla sau gri cu model a la Supernova. Eu personal as pune un gri deschis, ar mai lumina interiorul... 3. Daca pierzi capacelele de pe jante da-mi de veste ca mai am vreo 2 pe acasa de la Nubira . Ti le donez, normal. Eu am pierdut unul cand mi s-a supraincalzit roata din cauza glisierelor. Plasticul din care sunt facute e f prost, se sparge/topeste usor. Bafta! PS: De multe ori e bine sa faci socoteala cat mai vrei sa tii masina si daca merita sa mai investesti sau nu in ea. Eu m-as fi rezumat la antifonare si pasla groasa sub mocheta si nu as fi dat banii pe aluband. Rezultatul nu ar fi fost la fel de bun cu ce ai facut tu, dar si costurile ar fi fost mult mai mici. Eu in Nubira am bagat multi bani (in reparatii), adica ~800E, spunand ca o mai tin un an si am vandut-o dupa 3 luni cu 2800E. E clar ca n-am recuperat nici jumatate din bani. Ai grija si la acest aspect. E doar parerea mea .

Am asteptat raspuns o saptamana si pana la urma mi-am luat Petex universale (scria ca sunt si pt Epica) din supermarket. S-au potrivit la fix. Sorry, dar m-ati pierdut de client...

OMV se lauda ca poti face cu pana la 20km mai mult la plin cu OMV Sprint Diesel care e acelasi lucru cu Top Euro Diesel 5 de la Petrom. Surse: aici mergeti la caracteristici tehnice pentru fisa tehnica si aici pentru features la OMV Sprint diesel. Edit: Mircea, de ce vrei sa te reintorci la Petrom, erai unul din sustinatorii Rompetrol.

Poti sa incerci Koni, sunt printre cele mai ieftine amortizoare sport bune. Toni, amicul meu cu Seat Leon (1.8T 180cp) are de vreo 2 ani si e f multumit de ele. Ce si-a pus el sunt reglabile in duritate (nu mai stiu seria). Imi recomandase si pt Nubira, dar eu sunt adeptul comfortului . Si el le-a schimbat cu tot cu arcuri si si-a coborat-o 1 cm.

Salutare, Initial am postat la probleme KALEECCS, dar VAXXi m-a indrumat aici. Rpopun sa revigoram topicul intru cat subiectul este de actualitate, mai ales ca nu mai gasesti nicaieri altceva inafara de motorina EURO 5 (doar 10ppm sulf) cu cel putin 5% biodiesel. Dieselul de la VM Motori care echipeaza Chevy este Euro 4, dar motorina Euro 5 in principiu este compatibila cu motoarele Euro 4. In realitate motorina actuala nu mai lubrifiaza suficient pompa de injectie, de unde si multele probleme cu dieselurile in ultima vreme... Am cautat specificatiile EN590 ep wikipedia (carburantul care este cerut de motoarele diesel de la Chevy) si le-am comparat cu fisele tehnice ale producatorilor de combustibil din RO. Toate specificatiile par sa fie indeplinite. Pana acum ce am invatat de pe forum este ca trebuie sa evit motorina de la Lukoil si Agip care in timp ar dauna injectoarelor, catalizatorului si DPF-ului. De asemenea colegii de forum sustin ca motorina Rompetrol, Petrom si MOL ar fi de calitate buna. Tudor mi-a recomandat Petrom Top Diesel (din cate am vazut are fisa tehnica comuna cu OMV Sprint Diesel) care are raport bun calitate/pret. Eu personal am observat o "puturosire" a masinii cand am pus Lukoil Diesel Euro 5, fata de Petrom Diesel Euro 5 si OMV Sprint Diesel. In schimb masina a devenit mai silentioasa, mai ales cand motorul este rece. Am comparat fisele tehnice ale motorinei de la producatorii care le pun pe site (culmea, Rompetrol nu pune) si am observat ca motorina de la Lukoil are maxim 7% biodiesel, pe cand cea de la Petrom/OMV/MOL are intr 4 si 5%. Asta ar explica oarecum comportamentul diferit al masinii: se stie ca biodieselul are proprietati de lubrifiere ceva mai bune, dar arde mai greu. Am inceput sa pun si ulei 2T in motorina dupa ce am citit forumul acesta. Nu am observat o imbunatatire fata de cum mergea inainte, parca motorul e totusi putin mai silentios, dar deocamdata trebuie sa termin Lukoil-ul si sa revin la OMV/Petrom (Rompetrol nu imi e in drum). Invit toti diesel-arii sa ne impartaseasca experientele lor legate de diferitii combustibili si de aditivii de motorina pe care i-au folosit. Multumesc, Vali