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vbocan

Operatiunea schimbat ulei si curatare baie

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Am nevoie urgenta de parerea voastra. Azi ma duc la mecanic si vreau sa stiu daca ma tzapesc sau nu pentru urmatoarele chestii:

1. Demontare baie de ulei si curatire.

2. Inlocuire garnitura baie (garnitura o cumpar eu)

3. Spalare motor interior cu solutie flushing pentru ulei (solutia e cumparata de mine)

4. Schimbare ulei si filtru (pe astea le cumpar tot eu)

 

Pentru toate astea omul imi cere 250 de mii. E mult, e putin? Am auzit ca un schimb de ulei normal, adica fara demontarea baii e in jur de 50-100 de mii.

 

Raman recunoscator pentru impartasirea experientei voastre! :osanale:

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La banii merge ! ca are de desfacut si galeria .

Ai uitat sa pui pe lista ta un tub de silicon rosu 2+2 pentru etansharea garniturii la baie , instructiuni pe tub :wink:

Vezi ce gasesti in baie resturi , depuneri , studiaza-le bine apoi indeparteaza-le-baia sa fie "bec" si poti sa te uiti si la sorb si pe la cuzinetzi , pierderi pe la semeringuri etc . Ai o groaza de treaba ' nu ? :lol:

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Daca mecanicul ala stie ce face , este pomana curata :thumbr: ( daca mecanicul este de incredere , eu pe langa banii aia i-as da si bani de-o bere ) . Neaparat tine cont de sfatul lui iso : silicon rosu 2+2 pentru etansharea garniturii la baie . Fara el , schimbi uleiul si garnitura degeaba ...

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M-ati linistit, mersi. Chestia cu solutia pentru etansat baia o pune el, am uitat s-o spun. Tipul stie ce face, ca lucreaza la un service autorizat Daewoo, si de fiecare data cand a lucrat mi-a lasat o impresie buna.

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Ieri am fost la mecanic sa fac operatiunea de curatare a baii si schimbarea uleiului. Prima chestie ce a facut-o a fost sa-mi puna solutia 2+2 de curatare a motorului (un lichid rosu, arata de-a dreptul delicios :lol: ). Dupa asta a zis sa las motorul 15 min. sa mearga la ralanti :shock: la care eu m-am opus. Mi-a aratat pe cutie undev ca scrie 15, dar se vede treaba ca nu stia engleza, ca acolo spunea ca in caz de contact cu ochii se spala bine 15 minute. Timpul corect era de 3 minute (Idle engine for 3 minutes - do not drive the car).

Dupa golirea uleiului vechi (la iesire era un jet puternic, nemaifiind o solutie vascoasa dupa adaugarea solutiei de curatat) mi-a dat jos baia si am avut surpriza neplacuta sa vad sorbul plin de span, de la un ax cu came mai vechi pe care l-am schimbat acum un an. Retineti, cand se schimba axul cu came se curata si baia de ulei si se schimba si uleiul pentru ca particulele micrometrice ce se afla in suspensie pot face mult rau.

Costuri:

Ulei: Havoline 10W40 (bidon de 3.78L) 600000 lei din Selgros

Filtru de ulei: Purolator - 120000 lei (este Hexol si mai ieftin, pe la 70000)

Solutie de spalat motorul: 2+2 - 120000 lei din Selgros

Garnitura baie: 150000 lei

Manopera: 250000 lei (omul a pus vaselina lui pentru etansare)

Care sunteti din Timisoara vi-l recomand cu caldura. 8)

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@Vbocan - Cum merge cu Havoline masina?Ai mai avut asa ceva?Daca da cat l-ai tinut si cat s-a consumat?

Daca nu s-a consumat in ce regim mergi tu cu masina?- vreau sa fac o comparatie cu mine sa vad daca uleiul e potrivit...etc...ma intereseaza daca faci mai multi km in oras si cam care e media cand mergi in afara.

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@Vbocan - Cum merge cu Havoline masina?Ai mai avut asa ceva?Daca da cat l-ai tinut si cat s-a consumat?

Daca nu s-a consumat in ce regim mergi tu cu masina?- vreau sa fac o comparatie cu mine sa vad daca uleiul e potrivit...etc...ma intereseaza daca faci mai multi km in oras si cam care e media cand mergi in afara.

Inainte de acest schimb am avut tot Havoline si a mers bine. Din observatia mea zilnica nu am vazut ca s-a consumat, dar am pierdut pe la delcou si atunci a trebuit sa completez aproape un litru, dar asta nu se poate considera ca l-a mancat motorul. L-am tinut exact 10845 de km, din care aproximativ 6500 km in afara orasului. In oras conduc cel mai adesea distante foarte scurte.

Iarna motorul proneste foarte usor si nu am motive sa schimb marca uleiului avand in vedere pretul foarte bun si reputatia firmei care il fabrica (Chevron Texaco).

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Eu sunt foarte nemultumit de Aralul meu si o sa-lk schimb.Totodata ma intereseaza si un ulei care sa mearga la regimuri de turatii mai ridicate decat normale- 150 in afara orasului...

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Threadul asta era exact ce cautam; am schimbat iarna asta ax came, garnitura chiulasa, curele, culbutori, ulei ARAL sintetitic, antigel dar n-am curatat si baia ca era f. aglomerat service-ul si urma sa revin dar...am uitat (a fost prima data cand am umblat la motor in 7 ani de zile)

Pb e acum ca pierd ulei pe la filtru (UAMT romanesc super oferta) si ma gd sa curat si eu baia de ulei si sa schimb garnitura dar am inteles ca sunt pb cu etansarea garniturii.

Cate ore dureaza operatiunea ca la 300 mii ora de manopera m-ar interesa timpul?

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pui mana pe telefon, suni la service shi intrebi cat timp e normata operatziunea respectiva in catastiful lor..

 

cat dureaza fizic nu te intereseaza, oricum plateshti mai mult.. (adica cat e normata)

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Threadul asta era exact ce cautam; am schimbat  iarna asta ax came, garnitura chiulasa, curele, culbutori, ulei ARAL sintetitic, antigel dar n-am curatat si baia ca era f. aglomerat service-ul si urma sa revin dar...am uitat (a fost prima data cand am umblat la motor in 7 ani de zile)

Pb e acum ca pierd ulei pe la filtru (UAMT romanesc super oferta) si ma gd sa curat si eu baia de ulei si sa schimb garnitura dar am inteles ca sunt pb cu etansarea garniturii.  

Cate ore dureaza operatiunea ca la 300 mii ora de manopera m-ar interesa timpul?

De ce nu iti gasesti un mecanic de pe acolo care sa-ti faca lucrarea off-duty? Eu asa am facut, ca altfel imi vand masina si imi cumpar bibicleta. De unde esti? (ar fi bine sa completezi profilul)

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:o fftopic: @Nicotine: Doar informativ... vezi ca la profil ai casutza speciala pt locatie, nu-i nevoie s-o pui la modelul masinii. Scuze, daca totusi tu ai vrut asa!

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@ALICE

 

Eu am cumparat un cielo din 1999 acum un an si jumatate avea 115.000km iar prima data asta am facut, am dat baia jos,curatat baie (te vei minuna ce poti gasi acolo)si schimbat garnitura,solutie de spalat motorul 2+2 inainte de a da baia jos,schimbat garnitura la capac culbutori(cel in care intra busonul pentru ulei motor)+silicon rosu special pentru o etansare mai buna,dat jos sita din capacul de la culbutori si spalat cu decarbusolv foarte bine si sa vezi ce gasesti si acolo asa ca nu vei avea nici o parere de rau ca le-ai spalat.Vezi ca pentru a da baia jos va trebui sa desfaci galeria de evacuare la partea spre motor,eu cel putin asa am facut dar poate exista si o alta metoda. Am mai curatat si epuratorul, cred ca asa se numeste,este undeva in spatele motorului spre parbriz un furtun scurt care intra intro teava ce duce spre baia de ulei,la mine era aproape obturat de bucati de ulei intarit ,parca era nisip.

Alegerea este a ta,pentru ca este ceva de munca daca o faci tu si ai nevoie neaparat de o rampa ori un garaj cu groapa.

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Daca baia de ulei are garnitura,de ce mai e necesar acel silicon 2+2 ?Siliconul se pune peste garnitura?

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Magnetised oil traps

Recently, magnetic filter additions have started to surface. I was sent one in 2001 to try out and it really did seem to work. The product in question was called the Bear Trap BT500. Their website can be found here (now owned by One Eye Industries). It's basically a sleeve made of foam rubber and plastic with some magnets in it. It bends to clamp around the outside of your regular spin-on oil filter. The idea is that the magnets will attract any metal debris in your oil and stick them to the inside of the oil filter wall, thus preventing them from going back into the oil circulation. Being of a curious nature (or stupid, depending on how you look at it) I decided to dismantle my oil filter after using the Bear Trap for 5000 miles. I learned a couple of things.

 

You shouldn't try to do this yourself.

It's bloody messy.

But most importantly, after a brief period in accident and emergency to stitch up the gash in my hand, I discovered that sure enough, there were tiny arrangements of metal filings clustered around the inside of the oil filter wall where the magnets from the beartrap had been. You'll excuse the lack of photos to prove the point, but I had other things to worry about. If you visit their website or that of FilterMag (below) you'll see similar cutaway photos.

So can I recommend their product? Yes.

 

Another alternative to the Bear Trap is the FilterMag - essentially the same style of product but from a different manufacturer. FilterMag can be found at this link.

 

 

 

An alternative to custom magnetised oil traps.

Thanks to John Nightingale who read my pages and then felt he should contribute something. For those of you who do more than just change your filter - ie. take off the oil pan completely, John writes:

" Next time you are in the mall or high street, drop into the Radio Shack or a hardware store and purchase a package of modern, powerful ceramic magnets. These are available in various shapes and they are cheap. Radio Shack sells a package of two wafer shaped magnets, for instance. Stroll out to your car at the end of your shopping trip, bend down and stick these magnets onto convenient flat surfaces the bottom of your oil pan either side of the drain hole or as convenient. Now the magnets will magnetize the steel of the oil pan in their area. On the inside, particles coming through the field established by a magnet will be sequestered by being stuck to the bottom of the oil pan. Next time you take off the oil pan, clean it out in the usual way, pull off the magnets from the outside, clean them up and then stick them onto the inside of the oil pan at the bottom but clear of the drain hole. This will give an even better result since now the oil is exposed to the naked magnets themselves. The bottom of the oil pan in the area of each of the magnets is also magnetized, of course, and contributing to the effect. Resist the temptation to stand the magnets on edge to expose more of their surface to the oil. Placing the magnets flat on the oil pan uses the oil pan's steel as a keeper for the magnets and will ensure that they stay powerful. Placing the magnets flat will increase the area of the oil pan that is part of the magnetic circuit so you will loose no particle pick up area by having the magnets lying flat. "

 

Magnetised oil traps - doing it yourself.

There's nothing really special about magnetised oil traps other than the type of magnet they use. Bear Trap and FilterMag basically offer a consumer-oriented product. But if you're a tinkerer, there's nothing to stop you doing it yourself. The magnets normally used are Neodymium, nearly the most powerful nonelectric magnet type. They are the kind of magnet used in computer hard drives, often coming in pairs held just a few millimeters apart with the back end of the hard drive head assembly (the part being made of coiled wire) in between. If you can find a couple of old hard drives - try the local computer junk store - you ought to be able to disassemble them and take the magnets out to stick to your own oil filter. John Nicholas Sarris, a reader of my site, suggested this and provided the following photos as an example.

 

An open hard drive. The magnets (one visible) are in the upper left corner and are crescent shaped.

The top magnet plate has been removed. As you can see on the lower magnet it is attached to a metal plate. I presume this it to keep the magnetic field from the magnets between the two magnets and not extend outside the hard drive case.

The hard drive's head assembly has been removed. The lower magnet attached to its plate is clearly visible.

A pair of hard drive magnets side-by-side. They are still attached to their metal plates because the adhesive used to attach them is immensely strong. I once removed a hard drive magnet from its plate, but broke it in half in the process.

The same magnets holding themselves to my hand. I could have them stick to each other through my palm, but it was hard to take a good picture. This actually hurt my fingers a bit. As you can see they are strong despite being only 2mm thick. The plate they are attached to itself is 3mm thick.

 

The importance of neodynium magnets

I thought it worth pointing out here what a potential disaster awaits the home tinkerer if you just grab any old magnet and stick it on the outside of your oil filter. Your common or garden ferrous magnet, like those horrible souvenir magnets stuck to your fridge (you know you've got some) are usually made from iron, and thus have a limited life span which in some cases can be as short as 6 or 12 months. During this time they progressively lose thier power. Not enough for that hideous magnetic photo frame to drop off the fridge, but enough to be a problem if it was stuck to your oil filter. Why's that then? Well, come the end of the filters life, just as the magnet is weakening and the collection of metal particles is at it's highest, one good jolt and it could dislodge, and a large collection of metal shavings and filings could detach from the inside of the filter and find its way back into your engine all in one go. That would be bad. So as much as you might like the magnetic photo of granny and the giraffe from Whipsnade zoo to be stuck in a filthy oily place on your car, don't do it.

 

 

 

 

 

Mi se pare foarte tare si deosebit de ingenios. Dar este o idee viabila in practica?

In 2 cuvinte, despre ce este vorba : se leaga un magnet imprejurul filtrului de ulei iar particulele fine de metal rezultate din functionare motorului vor fi retinute in interiorul filtrului , acestea neintorcandu-se in circuitul de ungere al motorulu...- beneficiile mi se par evidente.

Edited by Radux

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Nu te costa nimic sa incerci, niste magneti de hard-disk gasesti usor...

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La mine e ceva de genul.. schimbat baie si ulei :(

Are cineva idee pe la cat se invarte pretul cu ttot cu manopera?

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Eu am dat 15 Ron pt operatiunile astea( doar manopera),cu uleiul meu OMV,motor flush,filtru si garnitura...cu toate m-a ajuns cam 115 Ron!

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Eu am dat 15 Ron pt operatiunile astea( doar manopera),cu uleiul meu OMV,motor flush,filtru si garnitura...cu toate m-a ajuns cam 115 Ron!

 

Pe mine m-a costat manopera 90 RON :-? la Service SUBARU, schimbat uleiul si spalat baia. Mi se pare un pic piperat dar, deh... firma...

Am cumparat ulei OMV light control 10W40, filtru MANN 721/22, garnitura baie "VICTOR REINZ", flush motor. In motor am avut pana acum ARAL TRONIC 10W40, dar citind ce s-a tot discutat pe forum am renuntat la el si am trecut pe OMV (gasit cu mare greutate, deoarece e plina piata de BIXXOL).

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Hai sa spun ce poate motor flush, NIMIC. In afara de faptul ca subtie uleiul si clateste motorul, NU poate mai mult, depunerile nu le ia jos. Folosesc din cind in cind si voi folosi in continuare, dar sa nu se astepte cineva ca motor flush sa curete un motor jegos, nu sint sanse.

 

Cinva se folosea sa spalatul pieselor - motoarelor petrol, sau gaz pentru lampi ( nu stiu exact cum ii spune). Am cautat aici, am gasit dar ii tare diluat, nu mai are acea putere si miros ... de petrolist. In Romania se mai gaseste asa ceva?

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Flush Motor este pentru intretinere, nu pentru RK. Solutia inmoaie depunerile, dizolva o parte, cat o poate face in 5 min si uleiul nou culege alta parte. Dar daca dai peste depuneri ca in cazul motorului adus la tine, doar demontarea si spalarea cu benzina are succes. Eu ma intreb: ce mai trecea prin sorbul din baie in poza ta ?

Edited by tolin

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